In the words of Los Angeles-based hairstylist Jessica Jewel, “Sometimes you just need your hair to be as clear as your goals, as white as the clouds, and as messy as your weekends.” Preach. Enter “baby white” hair. This is the adorable name she’s dubbed the whitest of platinum blonde dye jobs she recently did for one of her clients. Baby white is borderline translucent (but not enough to see your scalp), has the same angelic quality as a newborn baby, and that reflective quality of naturally white hair.
To achieve this peak white-blonde hue, hair health was key. “For a result like this, the current health of the hair must be in superior condition,” Jewel says. Taking this into account, starting off with virgin hair is preferable. However, if your hair is naturally dark, expect to sit through multiple lightening sessions “over weeks or [a] month,” Jewel says. Reason being? “The depth of hair is measured in a one to 10 level system. Level 10 is [the] lightest blonde level. One is darkest brown/black.” So you need to gradually get to that level to maintain the health of your hair. In this case, Jewel’s client originally had a level six/seven, and she took her up to a level 10, which is the lightest blonde possible.
To get to a level 10, Jewel bleached her client’s hair to lighten up her overall color. Throughout this process, she used Olapex to help strengthen her client’s hair and prevent damage. After lightening, her client’s hair was left with a pale yellow blonde color. In order to get that baby white shade, Jewel neutralized the yellow tones with violet ones. “I chose to use the Barcelona Toning Shampoo from Pulp Riot,” she says. After leaving it on for 10 to 15 minutes, Jewel rinsed it out with cool water. Then, she followed it up with the Amika Soulfood Nourishing Mask, which she left on for five minutes.
Surprisingly, Jewel says the overall process of creating baby white hair isn’t particularly hard, as long as you’re patient. Taking her time and not rushing it was the most important part. “Every rushed moment or skipped step will show,” she explains, “so it is a must to be extremely detail oriented and meticulous with every step.”
Ready to white out your hair? Ask your stylist for a level nine/10 white blonde tone with “diluted violet based toner or a very pigmented purple toning shampoo,” Jewel suggests. After your appointment, be sure to use a toning shampoo like the Sachajuan Silver Shampoo at home once a week or every third time you shampoo to help maintain the white blonde hue. Also, you must use a moisture mask weekly and heat protectant whenever you use any kind of hot tool, she adds. Just as its name implies, you need to care for your baby white hair as you would a baby.
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